“Banchan is very important to me,” says Sunny Lee, who leads the banchan program at the Korean restaurant Insa in Brooklyn, New York. “It has a very long history in Korea.”
Banchan means side dish in Korean, but in reality it’s a bunch of small dishes filled to the brim with pickles and the like that scatter the table at lunch or dinner. And if you’ve ever eaten at a Korean barbecue restaurant, or somewhere more traditional, you’ll know them by their multitude, and that they all somehow fit together: often different kimchis and beans, or sprouts and tiny fish to snack on before and with a meal. I asked Sunny, and Michael Stokes, Insa’s chef de cuisine, to give me a lowdown on banchan, and how its history details much of Korea’s itself.